Electronic ignition ???

[phoebe9435]

I just got off the phone with the gas appliance man (again). He made what I thought was a good case for an electronic ignition system.

!) To get a "certificate of Occupancy".

2) A lit pilot uses more gas in one year than making one meal / day. (I guess that would be an even higher ratio if you are CWTGO).

3) The oxidation that a pilot light creates causes rust.

Now, I don't care about the Certificate - I don't expect I'd ever sell the house with the stove anyway. But I am concerned with the waste and the rust. I am in this game to have a great and beautifully functional stove. I love to cook, I love to feed people I care about and I love to eat really good food.
I personally would not feel compromised by adding a modern safety mechanism - as the Gas Man said - nobody questioned adding disc brakes to his '55 Chevy.

I know this is not the usual route here, but has anyone anything to offer me in my dilemma? Does anyone have this ignition on their stoves?
Does anyone know what it involves, where to obtain it, the cost. etc..?

I appreciate any responses - positive or negative!

[lowracer]

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 10, 2006 12:17 AM: Message edited by: lowracer ]</font>

[phoebe9435]

OK, I hear you
- perhaps I am misunderstanding - I thought that once you had the safety valve system in you had to have a pilot on......
And if you don't (I am told) that your safety valve thermocoupler is compromised (or something not good like wears out quickly) by doing the Hot / Cold thing (per Gas Man conversation earlier) - He said this was a problem with many appliances that the pilot was not left on with (particularly water heaters).

[chipperhiker]

As I understand it, the safety system is designed to have the oven pilot running all the time. The other 2 pilots don't need to (thermowell and burner pilots).

Should one elect to light the oven pilot as needed, if it ruins the thermocouple, that part costs less than $4.00 anyway. If the labor's your won, then it's not too bad a fix. The bigger concern is the PITA factor of lighting the oven while holding the safety valve reset button each time. You certainly don't want it below the service cabinet floor.

Does anyone know if there's a way to rig an electronic ignition for the oven that will also incorporate a safety system that will shut down the gas flow if the oven pilot is extinguished? Or, would it work some other way entirely?

-jenn

[pmisaber]

Some time ago, the idea of making an electronic system available was mentioned in a thread. I believe that Sam, Todd and perhaps Tom Plumeri (I sure miss his input) were involved. To my knowledge, it never evolved further. Since Opal isn't installed and operational yet I am unable to do more than speculate, but doesn't the pilot in the thermowell help with overnight oatmeal preparation by maintaining the temperature at a level that promotes continued slow cooking? Replacing the pilots with an electronic lighter might alter the stove function in some respects.

Peter

[pmisaber]

Here is the thread referred to above: [url="http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7954&t=97"]http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7954&t=97[/url]

[phoebe9435]

Thanks so much,
I have been calling around today - to many of the resources listed on the Stove lovers website (Todd's) and ignitions are the norm with almost everyone I spoke with who restores old appliances. Frank in NY told me that he maybe could set me up with a glowcoil that he could attatch to the oven burner. It would have its own thermostat (which would go inside the service door) and so the oven control knob would just then be a knob (sad) but I would not need to repair my broken thermostat (an expense worth thinking about even though Uncertain Stoveman's price is by far the best I have seen ) or there is something called a MSC -(mercury safety control) which is difficult to install, apparently and uses a small pilot which becomes bigger when needed which then heats merury - leading to increased pressure activating the gas flow (this is my limited understand of it). This MSC is what is on all modern stoves.

I am not sold on anything yet and I would love to hear from anyone else who might have a better idea,

[ha_asfan]

well, only an opinion here...and I know a lot of folks think I am nuts when it comes to old things, I'm the chairman of our local historic district and sometimes called "The House Nazi" because I don't accept the notion that you have to change your house to live in it...and when it comes to design and engineering, it always seems best to stick with the original design. Our methods of using a device may need to be altered to use it as originally designed but those original designs were darn good. The safety valve on our Model C works beautifully, shuts off all gas at the slightest drop in pressure...and it is an easy re-light. Perhaps all the trouble you're having sourcing out what you want is an indicator...

[lowracer]

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 10, 2006 12:17 AM: Message edited by: lowracer ]</font>

[phoebe9435]

Thanks for helping me through this - I like to be fully informed (do the research) before I make this sort of move. I think I have enough information to make my decision now. I am likely to go with the safety system as you all suggest but I may be needing to do it without the pilot - I am probably going to have to at least start with propane (it will be a while before the gas company accomodates my need - if at all) and propane is unregulated here in North Carolina making it 4 to 5 times more expensive than natural gas. I am thinking of getting a tank at lowes and setting it up on the porch.